Backpacking Through Caroline County and Beyond

Have you ever spotted someone with hiking gear walking along the roadways of Caroline County and wondered why? Hopefully this article will explain most such sightings and maybe even inspire you to do the same — possibly on a much grander scale — via the American Discovery Trail.

Many folks, especially on the East Coast, have at least heard of the Appalachian Trail. While the proverbial man on the street may not know certain specifics, such as that it stretches from Georgia to Maine or that it is about 2,200 miles long, one would assume that the majority can at least identify it as a hiking path through generally mountainous, largely wilderness terrain. Far fewer people, however, utilize or even know about a national coast-to-coast walking route called the American Discovery Trail. It is possible that the Appalachian Trail gets more press because it is older, has been glamorized by mainstream films such as A Walk in the Woods, sees several thousand people attempt a thru-hike each year, is an official unit of the National Park Service, or traverses other well-known NPS units such as Shenandoah National Park and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The American Discovery Trail has none of the above in its favor, which may actually make for a better overall experience.

Consider, if you will, the following points when comparing the two trails in question. For starters, the landscape along the American Discovery Trail, stretching from Delaware to California, is many times more diverse than the Appalachian Trail. One of the chief complaints that drives Appalachian hikers off the trail before completion is the mind-numbing monotony of the scenery. The pace of winding up and down tree-covered mountains for five-plus months is relaxing to some but not all, especially when one can expect to remain in the same state for several weeks at a time (Virginia alone takes approximately a month). The altitude and timing of an Appalachian Trail thru-hike render a March start date a necessity for the main “bubble” of trekkers leaving from Georgia if they are to encounter optimal weather. With that said, hikers must still be prepared for snow at the start and end of their journey northward and plentiful rainfall in between; mud and wind are also constant companions. Travelers along this primitive mountain route must additionally remain vigilant for bears as prime hiking season is also their most active season.

The clientele of the Appalachian Trail must also be considered. For every veteran hiker that knows what he or she is doing and is pleasant to be around, there are plenty of others that fail to meet those ideal standards. If nothing else, the swarm of people on the Appalachian crest during peak hiking times means less room and potentially more annoyances for those attempting an escape to some quiet solitude communing with nature. While it is hoped that those choosing to live outdoors for possibly months in a row will be good stewards of the environment, annually there are reports of vandalism, trash, and waste left behind by the throng, not to mention the occasional murder as was unfortunately the case in 2019. Covered shelters and flat, rockless clearings fill up quickly in the evenin. Space comes at an additional premium in the Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains, where campers are required to obtain overnight permits in advance. Hikers must also luck into setting up camp in a secluded spot each night or they may have to deal with loud, possibly temporarily “impaired” trail revelers a few feet away. The longer one sticks with a thru-hike of the Appalachians, however, the harsh reality of the mountains thankfully thins the herd to a more palatable size.

Along the American Discovery Trail, however, the vistas will change almost daily. Frequently, solitary walkers begin in the east and work their way west. The eastern terminus of the American Discovery Trail is literally the Atlantic Ocean. Many hikers will take pictures or videos of themselves on the beach at Cape Henlopen State Park near Lewes, Delaware, as they start their journey. Over the next several days, trail users will encounter historic towns, shopping centers, bucolic farm fields, protected state forests, and full service campgrounds. This is much different, and also somewhat easier it should be acknowledged, than the desolate conditions and unforgiving terrain of the Appalachian Trail.

The American Discovery Trail offers myriad opportunities to get out of the elements if needed. Less logistical preparation in terms of food, gear, and other supplies provides a more enjoyable experience for the casual hiker as well. For some stretches along this route, trail users could even dine in sit-down restaurants and stay in hotels for several consecutive nights if they wanted.

It should not be concluded, however, that the American Discovery Trail is easy. It most certainly has its challenges. First and foremost, hikers have to actually hike it. At a robust 6,800 miles, the American Discovery Trail is more than three times as long as the Appalachian Trail. Difficulties mount as one continues west. Users must cross the Chesapeake Bay Bridge as part of the journey and walking it is not an option. Travelers on foot must arrange a ride from a friend or a service such as Uber. The trek gets no easier afterwards as the route soon passes through some heavily populated and coarse urban neighborhoods with dense traffic outside of and inside of Washington, DC. Of course, once there, visiting the various monuments, memorials, and museums is a very doable and exciting side venture.

The trail soon returns to nature, though, as it follows the C & O Canal to West Virginia. This also is the first real elevation hikers will encounter. They enjoy somewhat of a break from climbing as the Midwest is traversed, but later they must contend with the Rocky Mountains and various other ranges and deserts and river crossings before making it to the Pacific Ocean, finishing at Point Reyes National Seashore northwest of San Francisco.

It all sounds so simple, at least until one realizes just how large the country is and how many good weather days are necessary to complete this epic adventure. Even if a seasoned and athletic hiker blessed with accurate maps, favorable temperatures, and “trail magic” providence averaged 20 miles per day, he or she would at the very least need about eight months to finish the entire route. In reality, that pace is seldom sustained when attempting the American Discovery Trail. Some days, due to precipitation, fatigue, laundry/hygiene/resupply stops, or just plain bad luck, will be recorded as “zeros” or “neros” unfortunately. For those stretches when little to no progress is recorded, the best case scenario is that the traveler’s “battery” is recharged, allowing him or her to continue with gusto. Of course there are many positive surprises and welcome distractions one may encounter in nature or in a town, so it all works out in the end as long as the good outweighs the bad.

To be frank, it takes a special person to even consider walking the American Discovery Trail. Most people lack the flexibility to be away for months at a time, to say nothing of the constitution necessary to walk miles a day in relative solitude. One might assume that the American Discovery Trail, much like the Appalachian Trail, is a magnet for college-aged kids or 20-somethings who are more often than not rather unattached to professional jobs or families of their own. With that said, most everyone I know affiliated with the American Discovery Trail, walkers as well as organizers, are generally at least a decade older than that.

None could be described as unkempt in such a way that at first glance might make locals feel nervous or suspicious either. I have bumped into several in the vicinity of Ridgely — especially at the 9 Central Diner. My first chance encounter was with an older female hiker from Maine who for the time being was section hiking from Delaware to West Virginia. She is an Ivy League-educated physician, published author, and meditative Christian who, like a classic Transcendentalist, was walking for inspiration and insights relating to the healing spiritual properties of nature. She might sound like a hippie but this is the type of thing that neurologists like her consider. The second walker I met, also in Ridgely, is a recently retired real estate professional who decided the American Discovery Trail is what he wanted to do to celebrate. He recorded daily travel videos for YouTube that are full of reflections about the trail and life in general. The most recent hiker I met, about my age and also a historian, is something of a hiking celebrity and commands an impressive global social media presence as he power-walks one national and international trail after the other with ultra-light gear.

I am thankful people like those three are aware Caroline County exists and happily patronize local businesses. Word of mouth recommendations mean a great deal to the hiking community; members take comfort in knowing people are friendly, welcoming, and helpful along each route. I have not heard one complaint here about them or from them; please keep it up! The more we support and appreciate these travelers — perhaps even market to them as the nationwide organization they are — the more hikers will come here, spend their disposable income here, and tell others about their positive experiences here.
To my knowledge, no relevant local organization has formally reached out to any travel affinity group that comes to, through, or near Caroline County. It is an untapped market to be sure. Duly note, I have been invited to meet with members of the American Discovery Trail executive board in late March to explore future options, affiliations, and advocacy opportunities.

At this point, you are probably wondering what the exact American Discovery Trail route through Caroline County is. While that is proprietary information accessed with a paid membership as travelers begin to plot their way across the country, I will at least point out some easily identifiable stops along the way. If a hiker is attempting a westbound trip, they will enter Caroline County from Delaware near Hobbs. They will soon encounter camping options at Martinak State Park before making their way from Denton to Ridgely. Once there, a few back roads will lead them to Tuckahoe State Park, where there is a shelter off the left side of the road just before the Queen Anne’s County line specifically signed for travelers of the American Discovery Trail. It was built by North Caroline High School graduate Billy Staples as an Eagle Scout project, according to longtime local Boy Scout leader Walter Palmer.

Maybe this article will inspire a few locals to attempt sections of the American Discovery Trail or even the whole route. Start small, such as just the Delaware part or just Caroline County. Walking is addictive physically and mentally, many hikers say. Give it a try! Next thing we know you’ll be checking in on Facebook from some dirt road in Nebraska and loving it. Don’t say the Caroline Review didn’t tell you so, because we did in this very issue.

For more information on the ADT, visit: discoverytrail.org and/or email charlesdean3vzw@gmail.com. I also tend to feature hikers and their blogs as they pass through our area on the Facebook group Caroline Past and Present. Enjoy your new hobby.

Inside Shelter at Tuckahoe